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Trekking in Seshachalam is a dream for me and many trekking enthusiasts, as there are restrictions on most of the trekking peaks. Aside from a few easily accessible waterfalls, most in Seshachalam are not open to the public.

A post on Instagram caught my attention: the Thumburu Theertham trek! Deva Theertham is on the way to Thumburu Theertham, though with a slight detour. You'll learn how the plans evolved as we progress through this article.



Until the day before the trek, the organizers hadn't confirmed our spots because they needed clearance from the forest department. However, by Friday evening, I received a call saying we could join. My friend and I prepared for the overnight trek in Seshachalam.

This is my first trek with a Telugu-speaking group in Andhra Pradesh, and I'm quite thrilled. We've scheduled our departure from Chennai at 5 am because we need to arrive in Tirupati by approximately 9 am. The journey typically lasts about 3 hours, or around 4 hours if we opt for public transport.

Though it's a short trek but includes an overnight stay, we must be mindful of what we pack.

 

  • 25 to 30L backpack

  • Full sleeve T shirt & Trek / track pants – Must as trail has lot of bushes and small thorns, insect bites

  • Water bottle – 1L must (2L optional)

  • Snacks – Required

  • Space clothes – for water dip/swim

  • Sleeping bag / Bed sheets – Must as we will be sleeping outdoor (if you don’t carry your own tent)

  • Tent – Required to carry (organizers cover sleeping area with turpentine/banner covers.

 

The meeting point was across from the Tirupati bus stand. Our group of 35 had bus transportation arranged from there to the trek's starting point, "Kukkala Doddi." After a half-hour drive, we arrived at the starting location. There wasn't much in terms of briefing; we all set off on the trail without delay. Lunch packs were distributed to everyone, and I took responsibility for them. We also had to carry various items related to cooking and the overnight camp, which were distributed among us.



The trail is flat and accessible to both four-wheelers and two-wheelers. The organizers had a few bikes with them, so they transported the luggage on bikes to ease the burden for some trekkers. Some trekkers who came on their own also rode their bikes down the trail.

From the very start, elephant dung and footprints are visible along the trail. It seems that an elephant passed through the trail just a few hours ago.

After trekking around 2 kilometers, we encountered Annamayya Margam, which connects to Tirumala. This route is opened to the public on one of the auspicious days.

After trekking approximately 3.8 kilometers, there is a dry river crossing the trail, where bikes are parked. Beyond this point, the forest becomes thick and dense, and we proceed along the riverbed, which is lined with bushes.

 



At approximately 1:30 pm, we paused for a lunch break beneath a tree in the riverbed. Up to this point, we had trekked roughly 4.2 kilometers. Initially, the lunch was planned for a different location, but due to a lack of coordination, everyone was left to their own devices. By around 2 pm, we resumed our hike. Our goal is to cover about 6 to 7 kilometers in 4 hours, which means we need to hurry before the sun sets.

The trail is clearly marked with paint on the rocks. It runs alongside the riverbank but switches from one side to the other. Walking in the river is not advisable due to the presence of large boulders, which can significantly slow down progress.



Whenever we encounter a crossing or a passage through the river, we find a path along the bank and proceed forward. The trail becomes denser, turning into more of a bamboo forest with red sandalwood. As we pass through some of the thicker areas, mosquito bites are quite common. If possible, apply mosquito repellent to your hands and neck. Fallen bamboo trees have blocked the trail in several places due to disturbances caused by elephants.

After about a 30-minute trek, we reached a cave known as “sanyasi gruha.” It is situated right next to the stream. The water is very tasty and crystal clear. Until this point, my water intake was minimal, but upon seeing such clear, flowing water, I drank about a bottle and refilled it. From here, the stream contains water, and we are very cautious while crossing. In fact, all of us ended up in the water during some of the crossings.

 

The required pace was 1.5 to 2 km/h, and we are on track. The trail is very narrow, allowing only one person to walk at a time. There are long branches lying on the path, and some of us have tripped because our shoes got caught. We need to be very careful as there are small thorns that are scratching us. Ahead of us, about five trekkers have gone, and the guide, who is also the cook, was among them. By 5:50 pm, we reached the "Vengamamba Gruha." It’s a large rock cave with a small shrine dedicated to a Guru called “Sri Raj Guru,” although Vengamamba offered prayers from here.



As you may remember from our previous discussion, the journey began towards "Thumburu Theertham." The theertham is approximately 2 kilometers from this point. We will stay here overnight and resume our trek to Thumburu Theertham tomorrow morning.

 

Those with their own tents have set them up, and the organizers mentioned they would provide a plastic sheet or banners for us to sleep on. There won't be any overhead cover or roof. Elephants have even wandered through our campsite. I decided to sleep inside the cave, which offers overhead cover and is elevated, making it safer. There are two campfires, and people have formed groups, participating in various fun activities.

Dinner was prepared by 10 pm, consisting of rice, sambar, rasam, and bajji, served with curd. Many of us were exhausted since it was late.

During this time, four forest guards were camped nearby, and they were having a serious conversation with our organizers. They asked us to gather in one spot for a photo. I noticed discussions were underway, but I kept my distance. Before bedtime, someone mentioned that we might be prevented from visiting Thumburu Theertham.




Woke up at around 6:30 am after sleeping for about 7 hours without needing to get up during the night. Typically, sleep quality is excellent in the forest or outdoors. Although it was a cold night, my sleeping bag kept me comfortable.

Everyone at the campsite woke up to the news that we weren't allowed to go to Thumburu Theertham. Some of us approached the forest rangers and explained that we had traveled from all over India, but we had no success.

Tea was prepared over the campfire, and refreshments were enjoyed afterward. Card rice was made using the leftover rice from last night, and we tasted a bit before departing the campsite.The morning hike along the water stream was wonderfully pleasant and scenic.



After hiking approximately 6 kilometers, we've arrived at the point where we need to take a diversion. The chef has begun preparing lunch there so it will be ready when we return from Theertham. We walked through dense bushes for about 300 to 400 meters and reached Deva Theertham.

Firstly, there is no crowd in the falls since it is closed to the public. The water flow is good, and there is a sufficient pond below for swimming or bathing. The depth increases as you approach the fall, but it is about 4 to 5 feet deep in the middle, allowing anyone to enter and enjoy. We spent around 30 minutes there before climbing to the top of the fall. The path is quite dangerous and narrow, requiring navigation through rock cuts and tree branches, so we had to be accompanied by trek guides.

It appears that this Theertham contains approximately 12 Gundams in total if we keep climbing. With assistance from the guides, some of us began the ascent, and after around 10 minutes, we arrived at the top of the waterfall, where the views are breathtaking. There is a small Gundam right at the top of the waterfall, and the path continues up towards another main fall known as "Rushi theertham." Wearing shoes is definitely not recommended, so I had to go barefoot.



After a hike of about 15 minutes, we arrived at the upper falls, which is much larger and deeper than Deva Theertham. Only a few people ventured down due to its depth. I meditated there, while some experienced swimmers dived in. We spent about 30 minutes before returning to Deva Theertham and then headed back to our lunch spot. We enjoyed pulihora by the water stream and rested for a while, filling our bottles before departing. We had another 5-kilometer hike before reaching the road head. I had been asking our trek guide to show me a Red Sandalwood tree, and he mentioned that we had passed many along the way. Finally, we spotted a few trees right next to our path. We reached the road head around 3:30 pm.

We hadn't arranged for transportation, so we took a tractor ride to Tirupati until Renigunta Junction, and from there, we took a bus. We arrived in Tirupati by 5 PM and immediately started our journey to Chennai.


If you'd like to see a visual representation of my article, please watch my vlog on YouTube and leave a comment if you have any questions.  


 

Updated: Feb 20

Kotappa Konda is one of the famous Lord shiva’s shrine in Andhra Pradesh. It is combination of three hills / Trikuta hills. Kotappa Konda hill appears with 3 peaks in any direction so it's also called as Trikutadri, Trikuta Parvatham. The three hills are Brahma hill, Vishnu hill and Rudra hill.

  1. Brahma Shikharam: The main temple Trikoteswara Swamy Temple is located here.

  2. Rudra Shikharam: Old Kotayya temple is located here. This is the first place where Trikoteswara Swamy existed. Hence it is called Paatha (old) Kotayya Temple.

  3. Vishnu Shikharam: Lord Paapanaseswara Temple is here. It is believed that Lord Vishnu did penance for Lord Shiva. There is also a holy pond "Paapanasa Teertha" here.


Directions: This location is approximately 12 kilometers from the Palnadu district headquarters and 50 kilometers from Guntur. It can be easily reached via NH 16 through Chilakaluripet. The nearest railway station is Narasaraopet. Frequent daily buses are available from both Narasaraopet and Chilakaluripet.

The temple can be reached via the Ghat road or by taking the steps. Most devotees / visitors opt for the Ghat road because it is more convenient. Taking the steps usually takes about 30 to 45 minutes to reach the temple.


My hometown is located approximately 40 kilometers from this temple, and I have been visiting it for several years. Last year, I even created a vlog about the temple, providing all the necessary details for anyone interested in visiting.

Three hills and a temple are clearly visible from the Guntur and Kurnool state highway. A few years ago, while observing the hills, I spotted a small temple atop the tallest hill, known as Rudra Giri. During a conversation with friends, I learned that this is the original KotappaKonda temple, where God first appeared, and it is called "Patha Kotaiah / Old Kotaiah Konda." Since then, I've been eager to climb to the top.


Finally, the day has come. This time, I wanted to do something a bit different. The destination is about an hour's drive from my hometown. After lunch, I started around 3 pm and arrived at the starting point of the steps by 3:50 pm. There were very few vehicles in the parking area, so there were no issues, which is typical unless it's a special day. There is a temple administrative office and small stalls. Some devotees break coconuts before climbing the steps and perform a ritual at each step.


Things to carry:

  • Water - 1 L

  • Shoes - Mandatory, if you would like to climb Old Kotayya Konda. If you are going till new temple, Shoes are not required.

  • Full sleeves T shirt, as this place is too hot even in winter noon.

  • Snacks or nuts if you need something to munch.

Steps starting point
Steps starting point

I'm ready for the hike, equipped with a water bottle, trail shoes, and a Buff. I'm carrying a small hiking backpack since I have my Drone and Insta 360 with me.

Currently, my plan is to climb only up to Patha Kotayya Konda and return. I'll let you know later if it turns into a circuit trek. I took a couple of pictures at the starting point of the steps and began the hike. There's a small Gopuram at the beginning of the steps. I didn't make any effort to find out how many steps there are to the temple, which will be the final milestone of this journey.

Steps view
Steps view

It was a particularly hot day, despite it being winter. This area tends to be even hotter during the summer. Even at 4 PM, the heat persisted. It took me about 15 minutes to reach the "Ananda Valli ashram," the first temple at the end of the steps before reaching the giant Shiva lingam in front of the temple. I offered prayers from outside and arrived at the footprints of the Giant Lingam. From its base, I climbed the steps to stand before it. This is probably one of the largest Lingams I have seen so far. I also offered prayers to "Trikoteeswara Swamy" from outside and continued my hike up the steps. The path leads to the right side of the temple, where there is a Mandapam for Nagendra Swamy. At this small Mandapam, the steps end, and the trail begins towards "Patha Kotayya" Konda. A signboard there indicates the way.



Temple with intricate tower in bright sunlight, set against hills. Few people walking towards the entrance. Blue sky, serene atmosphere.
Current temple on Brahma girl hill

We will embark on a rocky and uneven trail leading to our destination. It seems the devasthanam board created this path a few months ago. After walking approximately 300 meters, the path emerges from the shade, and the sun begins to blaze. The route becomes steep and somewhat challenging to climb. I had to take several breaks to avoid becoming too exhausted.



Halfway up, I encountered water storage tanks that were operational. The devasthanam board made efforts to ensure devotees do not suffer. After about a 30-minute hike, I reached the top. The distance from the temple to the top is around 800 meters.

While climbing, I happened to meet a pujari who informed me to meet someone at the temple to explain the history of the deity and show me around the temple.



The Patha Kotayya temple is very serene, and the idol of Lord Shiva closely resembles Lord Mallikarjuna of Srisailam. I had the opportunity to take Darshan, and Mr. Venu, one of the temple's priests, permitted me to enter the Garbhalayam and touch the deity. They also explained the stalapuranam to me. They were very hospitable and encouraged me to share the greatness of Lord Shiva with the world.


Old Kotayya swamy
Old Kotayya swamy
Old Kotayya temple
Old Kotayya temple

Mr. Venu (priest) informed me that Vishnu Giri also features a temple and a pond. The trail from there connects to the road. He estimated the journey would take about an hour to an hour and a half. He also noted that there is no visible trail, but suggested following the dry grass along the way, as chemicals have been sprayed to remove the grass on the trail, and there are markings on the rocks in some areas. For a moment, I felt a thrill. I hadn't attempted such hikes solo, especially without knowing the path or timings. Without hesitation, I decided to embrace the challenge of this circuit trek.

From 5 to 5:30 pm, I spent time here and flew drone to capture some visuals. The drone lost signal, causing me significant anxiety, but thankfully, it returned safely. Around 5:40 pm, as the sun was setting behind the hills, I made my way towards Vishnu Giri.



I carefully followed the instructions given by the poojari to stay on the trail. Maintaining a steady pace was crucial because I had limited time before darkness fell. I balanced moving quickly with being cautious, as many areas had loose rocks and steep downhill sections. In some spots, we had to literally hold onto rocks to descend. The trail was surprisingly diverse, featuring woods, small rock caves, and steep sections. I slipped on one of the rocks, injuring my left knee and twisting my ankle. It took a moment to recover from the shock since it had been a while since I'd experienced something like this. I stood up and continued along the trail as the light gradually faded.



I ran on the trail wherever possible, but it was challenging to maintain speed due to my injury and the need to stay on the path. After about 40 minutes of hiking, I reached Vishnu Giri. There is a small temple and a pond beneath the rock. This pond, known as Paapanasa Teertha, is believed to cleanse one's sins if they take a dip or drink from it. A few water tanks are available for drinking water. I couldn't see the deity inside the dark temple, even with my phone light. I sprinkled some water on my head and began my descent immediately. As the light faded, I slipped on a rock, scratching my Insta 360 and sustaining a few minor injuries. Without time to pause, I got up and continued on the trail.

Trek Map
Trek Map

Starting from Vishnugiri, the path was lined with dense bushes and trees. Since I hadn't prepared for a night hike, I didn't have my torch or headlamp ready. There was still visible light at 6:20 pm. After another 10 minutes of a quick descent, I was at the base of the hill. I looked back to see the series of summits I had crossed, and with the fading light, the view was stunning. I arrived directly behind the Vedapatashala. Another 5 minutes later, I reached the road and made my way to the car parking area.  


Summarising the hike:

  • Time taken - 2.5 Hrs.

  • Distance covered - 4.93 kms

  • Elevation gained - 457 meters.

  • Trail type - Raw and medium difficulty

  • Temperature - Hot and Humid


Thank you for patiently reading about my journey. Feel free to leave a comment if you require more information.


  • Writer: Batasari Travel Tales
    Batasari Travel Tales
  • Feb 22, 2022
  • 6 min read


Kudremukh Trek the Most beautiful trek in Karnataka.

It is in the center of Western ghats in Chikmagalur district, comes under Kudremukh National park which is UNESCO world heritage site. Kudremukh is the third highest peak of Karnataka at an altitude of 6207 feet and often people refer it as a second highest peak as well. Kudremukh means, Horse face in Kannada. Kudremukh peak resembles Horse face.



How to reach:


310 Kilometers from Bengaluru & 120 Kilometers from Mangalore.


The base village for Kudremukh trek is Mullodi Village which is close to Kalasa. There are no direct Buses to reach Mullodi.


Route:


Bengaluru - Hasan - Kalasa - Balagal - Mullodi (Base camp village)


Mangalore - Kaikamba - Mudbidri - Kerekatte Vanyajeevi Valaya - Balagal - Mullodi (Base camp village)


Note - Cars will not go beyond Balagal unless its a 4 wheel drive. Read through the Own transport section below.


By Bus -


Bengaluru to Horanadu bases goes via Kalasa. Both KSRTC & Private operators has buses in this route.

If you are traveling from Bengaluru, take over night Bus from Bengaluru and it takes around 6 to 7 hours to reach Kalasa.

From Mangalore, it takes approxmately around 3 to 3.5 hours to reach this place.


I have traveled by KSRTC Sarige class bus in the day time which took close to 10 hours to reach Kalasa from Bengaluru.


Refer KSRTC website for details on the timings: https://www.ksrtc.in


By Train -

Mangalore is the nearest railway station which is well connected with all major cities of India. From there, one need to catch a Bus or Taxi (120 Kilometers).


By Air -

Mangalore International airport is the nearest Airport for Kudremukh trek and from there, one need to catch a Bus or Taxi (120 Kilometers).


Own transportation -

Google maps route is accurate and below is the navigation route:


Beyond Balagal, Cars will not go as its off road drive (around 5 Kilometers) and only 4 wheel drive Jeeps are used to commute till Mullodi (Trek base camp). Park your vehicle at any shop or at the Home stay.


Check list:

Location

Western Ghats, Chikmagalur District, Karnataka, India

Trek Distance

18 Kilometers (Both ways)

Altitude

6207 ft. / 1892 Meters.

Trek Duration

7 to 8 hrs. (4 to 5 hrs. to accend & 3 hrs. to Descend)

Season

June to Feb. Better views - Post Monsoon

Trek Permission

Required to obtain from Forest office at basecamp in Mullodi

Daily limit

First 50

Trek Fee

575 / Head

Trek Guide fee

1000 / Group

Jeep ride charges

500 to 800 / group

Trek Guide

Mandatory

Water

Availble on trail

Toilets

Not Available

Food

Need to carry

Trek Grade

Easy to Moderate

Camping

Not Allowed


Itinerary


Day 1 -

10 pm - Start from Bengaluru (over night journey)


Day 2 -

5 am - Reach Kalasa

6 am - Reach Pre-booked Homestay. Fresh up & breakfast. Pack lunch for noon.

7 am - Head Mullodi forest office. Jeep to be arranged by Home stay

8 am - Complete formatlities Forest office & start the trek

12 pm - Reach Summit & Finish Lunch

1 pm - Start Descend

4 pm - Reach forest office

5 pm - Reach Homestay & fresh up

8 pm - Dinner and pack things

9 pm - Reach Kalasa and take return bus to Bengaluru


Day 3 -

5 am - Reach Bengaluru



Things to Carry

  • Backpack - 20 to 30 liters

  • Rain coat / Poncho - Must during Monsoon

  • Trek shoe - Ankle covered

  • Trek poles - 1 or 2 (helpful during water stream cross)

  • 2 Liters of water / Hydration pack

  • Quick dry T shirts / Trek pants

  • Energy Bars

  • Plastic Cover to wrap Mobile / wallets / Electronic gadgets (remember to bring it back)

  • Electrolite powder



My Trek Experience:


It took almost an year for me to execute the plans after hearing so much about this Trek.

Ever since the monsoon season started, i have been checking the weather forecast and almost rains were forecasted everyday. Later i found that, Kudremukh is one of the highest rainfall places in india.



One fine weekend in the month of August, i have started my Journey from Chennai.

Took Shatabdi express around 6 am in the Morning and reached Bengaluru CNT by 11 am.

My bus from Bengaluru to Kalasa is around 12.25 pm from Kempegowda Bus stand. i have had another round of breakfast near Bus terminus and KSRTC Sarige bus started around 2 pm.




It took almost 8 hours to reach Kalasa and i was there by 10 pm. As it was late, Auto or Buse's May not be available to go to Homestay which is at Balagal, Hence the Home stay i have booked (Bella Home stay) agreed to send Auto. It was around 11 pm when i reached Homestay. Finished dinner and checked into my Tent.



It rained throughout the night. I couldn't get enough sleep due trek excitement and it usually happens to me. Alarm ticked by 5 am and i was ready by 6 am. Breakfast served at 7 am and i took a walk around the place for some time. Met some of trekkers who finished before day and they have shared the experience.

Packed lunch was given and started from Home stay around 8 am and it took around 45 mins to reach Base camp Forest office in Mullodi. Probably the scariest offroad drive i have ever experienced so far. Our guide has joined us somewhere in the middle. At the entrance of forest office, there was a peacock spotted on near by tree.


Forest office entrance


Trek Permission, Guide fee & Jeep ride cost was part of the Homestay package. Watch the trek series videos on www.youtube.com/batasaritraveltales


Our trek guide completed the formalities and post bag checking, trek started around 9 am.




There are 3 sections in this Trek.


Section 1 - Forest office to Ontimara 2 (Lone tree 2)

Trek Distance - 5 Kilometers

Duration - 3 hrs.


Trail goes right behind the forest office and we get to hear the sound of a Somavathi waterfall after trekking about 10 minutes.


Combination of forest section, grass lands & multiple water streams makes this trek most beautiful in western ghats. Views of the misty mountains treat our eyes during monsoon.


Various Water stream crossings

Forest section of the trail is covered with trees multiple water streams as we move forward. Trail also ascends gradually. At the end of forest land, we reach Ontimara 1 which is a big tree.

Ontimara 1

From Ontimara one, it takes about one and half hour to reach Ontimara two which is end of section 1.


Trail is mostly flat and close to 8 water streams we cross till we reach this place. During Monsoon, some of the streams will have higher water flow which will wet our shoes.

Leach i have removed after coming to homestay

Leaches are quite high during monsoon. Apply Dettol liquid upto knees to avoid these, however it may not be effective during rain.


Also, carrying a rain coat/Poncho is a must.

Ontimara Two

Section 2 - Ontimara two to Final stretch till water stream

Trek Distance - 3 Kilometers

Duration - 1 to 1.5 hours


This section of the trek is difficult, as trail gets steep with in few mins walk from the Ontimara two. Trail will be slippery and need to watch out our steps.



Keeping ourself hydrated is very important and one may need to take multiple breaks during this section. When i started this segment, it was heavy rain and i could hardly see the trail.

Rain continued till i reached the final stretch which is close to summit.

There is a water stream and this is the final one hence i have refilled the bottles.


Kudremukh summit offers 270 degrees views and i know i could barely see the one walking infront of me due to rain. Waited there about 30 mins to see if rain stops but i wasn't lucky.


End of Section two. after crossing the one kilometer to sumiit board.

Section 3 - Final stretch to Summit

Distance - 0.5 Kilometer

Duration - 30 mins


It was aroud 12 pm when i reached the last segment of the trek and downpour continued.

By then, i have already made up my mind that i would not be able to have any views from the summit. Still i would want to give a try by waiting there for couple of mins and see if clouds gets cleared. As i was already par with the time, didn't have any concerns from my Trek guide.

Trek guides constantly remind their team about time to reach and summit and return. Some times, it iritates too.

After waiting for about 15 mins, i have started my Summit push. It's quite easy and down pour continued. Around 12.45 pm i have reached the summit.

Rain spells were on and off and winds were heavy. Finished eating my lunch and completed Summit rituals (Photos & Videos).

Summit Moments

Remember, Forest department has time limitation for this trek. You must return back to Forest office before 6 PM. Instruction is that, where ever you are by 2 PM, must start to descend.


i have spent around 45 mins and started to descend. Remember, most of the accidents and injures during trek takes place only during descend hence one need to be very careful.


Views while descending

Best part of descend, we have views to the Kudremukh Valley till we reach Ontimara two.

Leaches, wet shoes & clothes, slippery trail will challenge you physically and mentally.

Beauty of Kudremukh Mountains

Reached forest office around 5 pm and waited for Jeep to come. There was a homestay near the forest office serves evening snacks and Tea. Our group spent time there over snacks while our shoes and clothes dried. That's the end of my trek!


Do reach me out through Comments section / Youtube / Instagram / Facebook if you still have any questions or feedback. Check the links below.


Watch the trek Vlogs on youtube:

https://youtu.be/NntQvFAdnCo


Batasari travel Tales - Enabling Travellers to plan their own Treks & Trips.





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